General UFH FAQ

A: UFH is a modern, discreet, and energy-efficient heating solution that delivers consistent comfort throughout your home. Whether you're building a new home, upgrading a room, or improving energy efficiency, a water-based UFH system from Ambiente offers long-term performance, lower energy bills, and a better heating experience, especially when combined with renewable energy sources, such as a heat pump.

A: Water-based (Wet) or Electric (Dry). Wet systems are the recommended solution for most residential and commercial applications, especially when heating larger areas. At Ambiente, we specialise in wet underfloor heating systems, providing tailored solutions that deliver long-term efficiency, comfort, and compatibility with modern heating technologies. 

A: Yes. Especially in new or renovated properties, where it can provide better comfort, energy savings, and flexibility. Although, in bathrooms, an electric radiator may be advised, especially if it is an older, less well insulated property, to dry towels efficiently. 

A: UFH is regulated by BS EN 1264, so a maximum of 29°C in general areas, 33°C in peripheral areas, and 35°C in bathrooms. This means it is entirely safe to walk on with bare feet. 

A: Even, comfortable heat distribution, improved energy efficiency, more design freedom, healthier indoor environment, low maintenance and long lifespan, zoning and smart controls. 

A: Higher upfront installation cost, floor height considerations, slower heat-up time, installation complexity, inflexibility after installation, not ideal for every room type. 

A: Yes. Lower operating temperatures, more even heat distribution, and reduced heat loss, means less energy consumption. This paired with a low temperature heat source is ideal for energy efficiency. 

A: Yes. This depends on the system used, and the existing floor construction. UFH is best used in new build, or renovation projects, but there are low profile options available for retrofits where floor height is a premium. 

A: UFH is compatible with a wide range of floor finishes, but the best results come from materials with high thermal conductivity, such as tile, stone, and engineered wood. Laminate and vinyl are compatible but check manufacturers guidelines. Carpet can be used but must be carefully selected to avoid excessive thermal resistance. Warm-up times are slower but will also retain heat well. 

A: Yes. UFH can be integrated into an existing heating system by using a single room mixing pack, or it can be installed with a standalone zone using a dedicated manifold port. Radiators can also be installed in extension of UFH, using the manifold and wiring centre, by being added to Zone 10. If the UFH/RAD switch (in the wiring centre) is set to RAD, and heat is called to zone 10, then no voltage will be supplied to the pump and valve outputs, but the boiler volt free switch will not close. This means that the boiler will come on, but the pump and valve will not. 

A: No. UFH does not require regular maintenance. Water based systems are sealed and built to last. An annual check of controls, manifold and water pressure is usually sufficient. 

A: If the floor is warming evenly, the room reaches the desired temperature, and the controls respond correctly, then it is operating as expected. If in doubt, then reach out to the Ambiente Support team to help resolve any issues. 

A: Not directly. This would be due to improper installation, or design. Cracks can form if the screed is not mixed correctly, given enough time to cure, or if the system was heated up too quickly during curing. Certain types of floor covering are prone to expansion, such as un engineered wood, especially if not installed with expansion joints. 

A: Not advised. The nature of UFH requires a much longer heat up and run time, than that of radiators. The zone valve to heat the radiators would not be open long enough to heat the UFH sufficiently and would impact the performance of the radiators. 

A: It's due to the floor construction in the building as some systems require more depth than others. Eg the thinner systems are more suited to renovation systems and the thicker systems are more suited to new buildings. Yes, they will respond differently but this is controlled by the thermostat settings. 

A: A buffer tank is an insulated storage tank that adds additional water mass to absorb or reject heat during low load conditions to prevent short cycling. It is a tank that is up to 100l in size, that sits between the heat source and the UFH. Flow of hot water goes through the buffer tank, into the UFH. Return colder water comes back from the UFH, through the buffer, and back into the heat source to be heated again. The reason this is more efficient is because the heat source is staying on for a longer period, at a lower load, so is not turning on and off constantly. The pressure of the buffer tank must be balanced so that hot water at the top, and colder water at the bottom do not mix, and the water differential stays the same.  

A: There are 3 main types of heat pump. Air source, ground source, and water source. Air source is the most common and would be used for residential areas. Ground source for more remote areas, detached from mains gas network and/or plenty of outside space to utilise. Water source is the least common and would be used when you have access to a body of water such as a lake or a well. They all use the same principle of heating/cooling, by moving heat in or out of the system. If you want to heat your UFH, the heat pump will draw the heat from the source and send it through compressed liquid to warm the water. It will then also draw the heat from the cooler water, to then pump outside back to the source. In warmer weather, air source is more efficient. In cooler weather ground and water source would be more efficient as they are drawing from larger heat masses, that retain more latent heat.  

A: No. The water temperature is lower coming from a heat pump, and you would only require a mixing pump if your water temperature were higher for central heating (usually 65-70 degrees). UFH needs water around 40-50 degrees.

A: Yes. This is to let the heat source (boiler, heat pump etc.) know when the UFH requires hot water.

A: Yes. This would be possible, but untested currently.